Carving with a PalmControl

[Phil Coggan]

Just another observation.
I'm coming to the end of the second carved side plate, (the first was previously posted) this one has Kudu carved.
Kudu horns have ridges partially around them almost like rings. Normally I would have done this with a push graver, which causes a few problems with this type of work in that cutting a half round cut about 0.2mm wide around a curved surface will inevitably cause slips, using the pc at about 35psi with a short stroke eliminates this and saves a lot of tidying up later!
Steve has been doing some modifications on my new one which includes a stronger spring for carving etc.
It will be interesting to test these mods!

Phil

[rick woodward]

Hi Phil
Isn't great to get something that makes life/work easier and quicker ? You mention a stronger spring. I didn't know his hand pieces had springs in them. I thought they didn't. But i don't know, never had one in my hand before. Cant wait to see your latest works. rickw

[jlseymour]

Phil, No spring just a piston, but the tungston piston will hog some metal...
Jerry

[Phil Coggan]

Jerry, the spring allows different palm pressures, press the handle (with air turned off)and you'll see it working, I expect Steve will jump in and explain it a little more.

Phil

[Daniel Houwer]

Hi Phil
Does a stronger spring not mean that you have to push harder to get the machine to work?

Any ways, I love your work and hope to see some more of your carvings with a stronger spring.

Daniel

[Phil Coggan]

Yes it does Daniel, but you're only pushing to get it working, the tool still does all the work.
I should finish the plate in two or three days, i'll post it.

[Roger Bleile]

I just got my PC on Wednesday and I understand what Phil is talking about. I am used to using a push graver too and have found it best for me to increase the spring pressure, as explained by Steve in another post. This helps me get the cut started more like a burin and also helps with stopping the tool when I release my left hand from the vise to reposition my hand for the next turn.

Roger

[SVD]

Looking forward to seeing the plate.

Sounds like it won't be until your next project that you'll really be able to see the effect of getting powered up has on one - on this one you keep finding new ways for it to do more for you. On the next one you'll already know what it can do from the start. Who knows, this one may go from six months to four and the next one might only take three.

All of which means we get to see more of your fine work! :)

[Daniel Houwer]

I think I get it.
Whenn carving you cut much bigger pieces of metal at a time. With a light spring there would be not enough mass behind the graver to push through the metal cause it would push your hand back to. A heavyer spring would put more mass behind the graver so that the energy moves metal instead of hand.
Am I close?

Daniel

[austin]

Just let the graver and piston do the work,the more you push the palm,the more air flow into airgraver.While using chase-hammer ,power work at chase is come from hammer,but not the hand hold chase.

Austin

[Phil Coggan]

Carving is not quite the same as cutting a line. If you can imagine a ball shape, say, the centre of a scroll. To create this ball, there are lots of fine cuts, oh, this is with a flat chisel by the way. The chisel has to be put down lightly on this ball and then a slither of metal taken away. Because the chisel has not much to purchase on, you don't want it vibrating initially and it only needs slight pressure from your palm to make it do this because of the various angles it has to be held at.
Daniel,
For carved background removal it does help to take a lot of metal away in one go, the pc does this beautifully, but with carving, big metal removal per cut is not absolutely necessary, it's better to take off less and refine the shape.

Phil

[Daniel Houwer]

Hi Phil,
If with carving you don't take away a lot of material then what is the use of the heavyer spring? Just old habbits?
For fine removals you don't need as much mass behind your graver then with heavy chunks.
Whenn I have to remove just a little I screw the spring bolt back so that it will run befor my graver cuts before the piston starts going.

Daniel

[Steve Lindsay]

The heavier spring would give more resistance at the top end. In other words, it would be similar to what the adjustment screw in the back center of the PC does described in this thread (http://www.handengravingforum.com/showthread.php?t=1818) at the lower power end (the initial part of a cut) but also at the higher end. The same effect can be done by adjusting the valve itself rather than changing springs. The valve is adjusted with screws on the front of the PC that the manual tells us not to touch. I will set Phil's second PalmControl up this way so he can try it and feel the difference.

Steve

[Phil Coggan]

Daniel,
The whole idea is for it not to start before cutting and because you manipulate the tool to various positions it is possible for your palm to start the tool off, with the spring screw at 6 o'clock and the psi down to around 35 you have to be light handed not to start the tool working. This is quite acceptable for those used to power, but since I'm used to a manual push graver I like addtional resistance.


Phil

[Daniel Houwer]

Ah, I get the drift. Being used to pushing gravers you develop a heavyer hand. That is what I ment by old habbits. Nothing wrong with that.

So now whe know :yesnod:

Daniel

[jlseymour]

Phil, My Brain cells are getting old, I've not thought about the adjustment screw sense I got the PC. I'll play with it to see any diffrence...
With the tungston piston and adjusting to 6 oclock should move some metal...
Thanks for sharing all your info...
Jerry

[Phil Coggan]

One of the best features about the pc is that it has many adjustments so it is possible to get optimum result whether it be for fine bulino, heavy carving, stippleing....whatever!
Phil