paul66
07-15-2008, 06:56 AM
(If you would like to comment on this submission, you may do so by posting a reply in this thread (http://www.engravingforum.com/showthread.php?t=1931). Thanks! Kaitlin)
Star setting Diamonds
There are two great threads on diamond setting I have read lately , Daniel Houwer's eternity ring, and the just posted one by Jim Zimmermn on a Gypsy tutorial which are both excellent guides to setting stones, In most good setting the basics are always the same only methods to achieve them vary, so in my tutorial of star setting I will show my methods.
This is also my first use of the airgraver on a customer's job where I have decided to cut, set, and bead the diamonds with the classic instead of using my usual hand tools. Although I have only had the graver for a few days, I think I already have enough control with the graver to perform this task.
Secondly this is a paying job,I set several rings like this a month, and I hope with practice, I will not only perform a better job, but do it easier and quicker
The customer's job is to set 3 small 150pc diamonds ( about 1.15mm in size ) in to a ladies 18 ct yellow gold 2.5mm wide wedding band.
I would normally, cut the stars with a v and flat gravers, lift the beads to hold the stone with a round graver. and set the lifted beads with a beading tool. Most beads I lift with a .7mm round graver, but on these smaller stones I use a .4mm round graver.
Now lindsay does not make a template for a round graver,but I thought I could fashion one with the flat templates. First I used the flat templates to reduce the sides of the blank till it was .4mm wide, I also shaped the bottom face as well as reducing the top of the graver. Then by hand I used a fine small flat diamond file to round the bottom of the tool, progressing through finer emery papers till it had a polished round shape on the bottom, then the face was ground to give to a 45' cutting face, I Finished the top of the graver with with the first universal v template guide, to reduce it some more and give it a ^ top. I don't know if this last step really lets you see your work any clearer, but it does not hurt. you do not put a heel on this graver, I use it just to lift beads
Finished tool
http://engravingschool.com/forum-pics/tutorials/graver.jpg
With our new tool made lets begin
when setting multiple stones I always try to pick a set that are as close as possible all the same size. Natural stones are usually always different sizes, an it can be noticeable when set even in these small sizes.
materials picture
http://engravingschool.com/forum-pics/tutorials/materials.jpg
Next use dividers and or calipers to mark a centre line and spacing of your stones on the ring.
divider picture
http://engravingschool.com/forum-pics/tutorials/divider.jpg
Next i use a scribe to imprint the centre points, then center punch each point where I want to drill.
scribe and punch ring
http://engravingschool.com/forum-pics/tutorials/scribe.jpg
I then drill each hole taking care to keep it perpendicular to the ring, I also measure my drills for my small stones, making SURE its smaller than the diamond, in this case a .8mm drill, for the 1.15mm stones, I also finish inside the band with a bud or ball bur to clean up the inside burs
drill holes
http://engravingschool.com/forum-pics/tutorials/drill.jpg
Now I measure the diamonds and use a bud bur a bit smaller in size to reduce a bit of the metal in the drilled holes
Next I used a setting bur to cut the seat for the diamond, Now I think this is the MOST CRUCIAL STEP in all setting procedures, if cut well, the setting will be easier and the diamond better supported when you are moving the beads over the stone . what you want is for the diamond to be set just below the surface in a nice firm hole, I ALWAYS use a smaller setting bur than the diamond , try the fit of each diamond and gradually move up in bur size till the fit is just right. I do this for each and every diamond and try all the diamonds for fit.
seating pic
http://engravingschool.com/forum-pics/tutorials/seating1.jpg
http://engravingschool.com/forum-pics/tutorials/seating2.jpg
AND NOW FINALLY SOME AIRGRAVER CUTTING
I remove the stones (dont loose them) and are ready to cut the stars with the airgraver. I have fitted the graver with the calligraphy graver, I think this will cut a nice wide shallow cut. I cut all the horizontal star facets first then all the vertical, Usually the horizontal are a little longer cut than the vertical, I also ran the belly of the graver first over some 2500 grit emery paper to finely polish the graver edge. I think it looked good for a first effort.
star cutting
http://engravingschool.com/forum-pics/tutorials/star-1.jpg
Now I fit the graver with the detailing graver for the in-between points, I dont want these to bee too wide and they are to stop short of the hole, about half way
star cutting
http://engravingschool.com/forum-pics/tutorials/star-2.jpgxxxxxxxxx
I refitted the stones, sometimes, you may have to use a setting burs again if the holes have been squashed a little when cutting the stars, remember dont use too large a bur.
Now I fitted my new made round graver to lift the beads from the in-between part star cuts, I turned the graver down to a finer setting as these need to be cut with some control and watched carefully as the tool cut closer to the diamond and lifted a bead, as it got close to the hole, I kept the power on but increased the angle of the graver till it was near vertical.
this stops the bead from being cut off and forces the bead over the diamond. This worked very well controlled, and easy, I soon had all the beads over the stones WOW
lifting beads
http://engravingschool.com/forum-pics/tutorials/bead-1.jpg
Lastly I fitted the grave with a round setting beader, again with the power on low I held the graver vertical while over the beads and applied power and watched as the beader shaped the metal over the diamonds
beader
http://engravingschool.com/forum-pics/tutorials/beader.jpg
I finished with a quick polish just to remove the guide lines and any scuff marks, but not too much as you want the star cutting to be sharp, and the jobs done.
http://engravingschool.com/forum-pics/tutorials/final.jpg
Now I think that I could have completed this job quicker with the airgraver than I usually do it by hand, Taking the pictures took most of the time. I also think I performed a better job than I achieve by hand. this is because of the fine control I had with the airgraver, and cutting the stars was a breeze with the polished calligraphy graver.
Thank you lindsay.
Paul
Star setting Diamonds
There are two great threads on diamond setting I have read lately , Daniel Houwer's eternity ring, and the just posted one by Jim Zimmermn on a Gypsy tutorial which are both excellent guides to setting stones, In most good setting the basics are always the same only methods to achieve them vary, so in my tutorial of star setting I will show my methods.
This is also my first use of the airgraver on a customer's job where I have decided to cut, set, and bead the diamonds with the classic instead of using my usual hand tools. Although I have only had the graver for a few days, I think I already have enough control with the graver to perform this task.
Secondly this is a paying job,I set several rings like this a month, and I hope with practice, I will not only perform a better job, but do it easier and quicker
The customer's job is to set 3 small 150pc diamonds ( about 1.15mm in size ) in to a ladies 18 ct yellow gold 2.5mm wide wedding band.
I would normally, cut the stars with a v and flat gravers, lift the beads to hold the stone with a round graver. and set the lifted beads with a beading tool. Most beads I lift with a .7mm round graver, but on these smaller stones I use a .4mm round graver.
Now lindsay does not make a template for a round graver,but I thought I could fashion one with the flat templates. First I used the flat templates to reduce the sides of the blank till it was .4mm wide, I also shaped the bottom face as well as reducing the top of the graver. Then by hand I used a fine small flat diamond file to round the bottom of the tool, progressing through finer emery papers till it had a polished round shape on the bottom, then the face was ground to give to a 45' cutting face, I Finished the top of the graver with with the first universal v template guide, to reduce it some more and give it a ^ top. I don't know if this last step really lets you see your work any clearer, but it does not hurt. you do not put a heel on this graver, I use it just to lift beads
Finished tool
http://engravingschool.com/forum-pics/tutorials/graver.jpg
With our new tool made lets begin
when setting multiple stones I always try to pick a set that are as close as possible all the same size. Natural stones are usually always different sizes, an it can be noticeable when set even in these small sizes.
materials picture
http://engravingschool.com/forum-pics/tutorials/materials.jpg
Next use dividers and or calipers to mark a centre line and spacing of your stones on the ring.
divider picture
http://engravingschool.com/forum-pics/tutorials/divider.jpg
Next i use a scribe to imprint the centre points, then center punch each point where I want to drill.
scribe and punch ring
http://engravingschool.com/forum-pics/tutorials/scribe.jpg
I then drill each hole taking care to keep it perpendicular to the ring, I also measure my drills for my small stones, making SURE its smaller than the diamond, in this case a .8mm drill, for the 1.15mm stones, I also finish inside the band with a bud or ball bur to clean up the inside burs
drill holes
http://engravingschool.com/forum-pics/tutorials/drill.jpg
Now I measure the diamonds and use a bud bur a bit smaller in size to reduce a bit of the metal in the drilled holes
Next I used a setting bur to cut the seat for the diamond, Now I think this is the MOST CRUCIAL STEP in all setting procedures, if cut well, the setting will be easier and the diamond better supported when you are moving the beads over the stone . what you want is for the diamond to be set just below the surface in a nice firm hole, I ALWAYS use a smaller setting bur than the diamond , try the fit of each diamond and gradually move up in bur size till the fit is just right. I do this for each and every diamond and try all the diamonds for fit.
seating pic
http://engravingschool.com/forum-pics/tutorials/seating1.jpg
http://engravingschool.com/forum-pics/tutorials/seating2.jpg
AND NOW FINALLY SOME AIRGRAVER CUTTING
I remove the stones (dont loose them) and are ready to cut the stars with the airgraver. I have fitted the graver with the calligraphy graver, I think this will cut a nice wide shallow cut. I cut all the horizontal star facets first then all the vertical, Usually the horizontal are a little longer cut than the vertical, I also ran the belly of the graver first over some 2500 grit emery paper to finely polish the graver edge. I think it looked good for a first effort.
star cutting
http://engravingschool.com/forum-pics/tutorials/star-1.jpg
Now I fit the graver with the detailing graver for the in-between points, I dont want these to bee too wide and they are to stop short of the hole, about half way
star cutting
http://engravingschool.com/forum-pics/tutorials/star-2.jpgxxxxxxxxx
I refitted the stones, sometimes, you may have to use a setting burs again if the holes have been squashed a little when cutting the stars, remember dont use too large a bur.
Now I fitted my new made round graver to lift the beads from the in-between part star cuts, I turned the graver down to a finer setting as these need to be cut with some control and watched carefully as the tool cut closer to the diamond and lifted a bead, as it got close to the hole, I kept the power on but increased the angle of the graver till it was near vertical.
this stops the bead from being cut off and forces the bead over the diamond. This worked very well controlled, and easy, I soon had all the beads over the stones WOW
lifting beads
http://engravingschool.com/forum-pics/tutorials/bead-1.jpg
Lastly I fitted the grave with a round setting beader, again with the power on low I held the graver vertical while over the beads and applied power and watched as the beader shaped the metal over the diamonds
beader
http://engravingschool.com/forum-pics/tutorials/beader.jpg
I finished with a quick polish just to remove the guide lines and any scuff marks, but not too much as you want the star cutting to be sharp, and the jobs done.
http://engravingschool.com/forum-pics/tutorials/final.jpg
Now I think that I could have completed this job quicker with the airgraver than I usually do it by hand, Taking the pictures took most of the time. I also think I performed a better job than I achieve by hand. this is because of the fine control I had with the airgraver, and cutting the stars was a breeze with the polished calligraphy graver.
Thank you lindsay.
Paul