First practice knife w/PC

[mtgraver]

Hello All,
This "Buck" knife is the first doodle I've completed with the new PC. I'd never cut stainless before............what fun, expanding the 'ol repertoire. Ya'll have actually encouraged me to practice my scrolls, although this piece was done basically freehand.
I've only got the one side pictured, the other side was blurred for some reason, so I'll if another shot if anyone is interested. Tried to work on my photography lighting a bit this time.
Any comments and critiques encouraged.
Mark

www.MarkThomas-graver.com
Deleted photo and re-posted below.

[Steve Lindsay]

Hi Mark, I can see in the cutting you have good control. You're right though about the photography needing work. Try placing blanket batting above the knife with a light behind the batting. It will diffuse the light. Shade the engraving from other light sources in the room. The idea is to make the unengraved surface of the knife reflect the white from the batting and the cuts to reflect dark or at least less dark areas in the rest of the room. The cutting as well as your style of scroll design is looking very good and expectially for the first knife. :cheers2:

[SVD]

Mark
Looking good! :thumbsup:

I explain power engraving by telling people it's just like traditional hand engraving except you're Superman - you can slide through steel like it's soft silver.

For help on the photography I did a little Small Object Photography Tutorial (http://www.svandyke.com/Tuts/SO/sotut.html) a while back that will give you some pointers.

The two main things are light control, as Steve mentioned, and also the number one tip for sharper pictures - use a tripod.

[mtgraver]

Thanks guys,
I took this pic. under a sheet (make shift light tent) using only the overcast natural light, on a tripod. Using a timer with a point and shoot w/macro, I've unfortunately got into a habit of taking pictures for reference and not for presentation. Thanks again for the encouragement, guess it's time to refine my directions. I'll try the other side today and see if I can make some progress.
You'll have to wait to give me the brutal truth. Just kidding.
Mark

[SVD]

One other thing you might try is some temporary blackening of the cuts. While you may or may not want the piece blackened for 'real life', it's good for pictures for here because it shows the cuts better.

For temporary darkening I'll either rub in some transfer wax or use a Sharpie.

The transfer wax I use is home made per Marty Rabeno's instructions - it's a ChapStick melted down and mixed with powdered graphite. Just rub some on an engraving and it will darken the lines right up.

For the Sharpie you 'paint' the piece with the marker and use your thumb to rub it back off of the surface.

For a quick check while working either method works, or, after you've done it a couple of times, the dirt that's accumulated on your thumb will do the trick all by itself.

Both clean off with acetone (although a toothbrush helps with the wax). I'll darken like this while working (sometimes) to see how things are looking - especially when I'm shading. If I can't decide if a piece will look better dark or bright I'll darken it to see.

I've been using Rustoleaum for my blackening but I've recently seen a couple of other things I want to try out.

[mtgraver]

OK, guys after many trials, under tent, without tent, indoors, outdoors (a little windy/chilly), finally indoors reflecting lights on walls,etc. and darkening the cuts temporarily with charcoal. Here's the result, not the best but all the time I want to spend on it today. Dang to much time reckon I'll have to work past midnight to get back on schedule of real work. Thanks for the help, so what do you think now?
Mark

I can't get the other photo loaded, exceeds space. Deleted the other posts, compressed files to no avail. Is it better to use my website to post multiple pics.? This has been an exasperating day with technology. I'm going back to the 18th century..........I have a much better comfort zone.

[SVD]

Oh yeah, that's nice!

Darkening the lines really helped them show up on the photo. Shiny things are just such a pain that way. Easier for the camera to focus on the engraving when it's dark lines on the bright background as well, in my experience.

I have my own domain (Yahoo Small Business - it's like $30 / month for unlimted storage, unlimited bandwidth, and some absurd (1,000?) email accounts) and just slap all my pictures there. That way I can point to them from anywhere.

The free photo hosting sites are nice but a lot of workplaces block them - my workplace has the Firewall of Idiocy that blocks most of them, with random exceptions (hence the name).

[WVEngraver]

Mark,

First off ... let me say that your work on your website is fantastic.


Is this Gentleman's Buck knife a 410 stainless engraveable version or is it the commercially available hardened 416 version?

Chris

[mtgraver]

Thanks Chris for your kind words. I have no idea what the properties are this stainless, I'd say it is 416, since this was a bargain priced knife. I had a bit of experience with all types materials while working in the printing industry. It doesn't work like a hardened material. It responded very smoothly is why I must assume that it's probably 416. The only # is the model #525, the local hardware store had a boat load at a reduced price. A small investment to play, now I'd better get back to finishing the paying jobs.
Fare well,
Mark
www.MarkThomas-graver.com

[WVEngraver]

Thanks Mark,

The reason I ask is that Buck produces a special run of these knives specifically for engravers. They are made of 410 and are very easy to cut. The ones you find in the stores are much harder.

Wonderful work and keep it up!!

Chris