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  #1  
Old 05-22-2008, 04:00 PM
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Daniel Houwer Daniel Houwer is offline
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Default Eternity ring

Oh Dear, Joe Cera put me up to this.
First let me tell you that this ring was made without use of pneumatic equipment, so for a lot of you this may not be interesting. The engraving on the ring is no more than simple basic scratching.
This is an old school way of setting an eternity ring.

The eternity ring. (half eternity)

This ring was made for somebody who wanted a red golden ring with Safire and diamondís
The 5 diamonds are 1.2mm. And the Safireís are 1.5mm.
With this setting I need 0.5mm beside the stoneís so the ring will be 2.5mm wide.








Make a mark on the center of the ring. I use a caliper for this. Set it on half the size of the ring, guide it on one edge and scribe a line from each side. If done well youíve got one line. If not so well youíve got two with the center right in the middle.













Decide how far of the centers of the stoneís will be apart. I use about 0.2mm between each stone. For this one I used 0.3mm. The difference between 1.2 and 1.5. You could use 0.2 though.
Take your dividerís and set out the distance. Punch one centermark and use it as a start for your divider and set out the centers.














Then use a centerpunch (dull burr with a 45degree point cut on to it) to mark the centerís
















Drill the holeís with a little drill. I like to use 0.5 up to 0.8 when dealing with small stoneís.
If you use a 1mm drill straight away you donít have much chance correcting ďmiss drillsĒ.















Most of the timeís you have to correct some. Start with a 0.8 ball burr to correct the holes. After that, 0.9 or 1.0mm.
You donít have to correct the hole in 1 go. You just have to adjust the hole until its right.

.













Donít drill all the way through after about 0.9 Drilling through after that will only weaken the ring unnecessarily.
Push your ball burrís in so deep that you will only see the top of the burr at surface level. The last ball burr (1 tenth of a millimeter smaller then the stone) will go in just a bit further than halfway so about 75%. This is to make it easy for the 90degree hart burr to make a seat for the stone without getting it to do too much work.
Hart burrs tend to cost a lot more then ball burrs so it pays to be gentle with them. Some burr life will help to.
When the seat is correct the stone should squeeze in nicely or even click into place. I often place the stone table down on a piece of hardwood or steel and push the ring over it. Donít try this with soft or brittle stones!
When the seat is good the table facet of the stone should be level with the top surface of the ring.












Donít forget the holeís on the inside of the ring. Finish them with a ball burr of about 1.5mm so that their nice and smooth. Then when all the stones fit properly some bead raising is in order. I use a round graver for that.
I make the graver from an old dull burr. The tip should not be too wide or narrow and should leave a burr big enough to hold both stoneís. Raising the beads is done at a pretty steep angle. This is to get a good strong bead with enough ďrootísĒ to be very solid. 45 degrees is a good angle to raise beads. Start the burr straight between two stoneís. I often draw a line from Stone to Stone. This line will be a good place to start the burr.





















After raising the beadís the stoneís should be held in place and preferably stuck already. A 6 or 7 beading tool (in this case) is used to round of the beads. I start at a 45degree angle and wiggle my way up until the tool is vertical.





















The stones are stuck and should not be able to move. Check this and correct if necessary.
Now itís time to cut the edge of the setting. I use a square graver at the ends of the file and cut a small cut towards the center of the stone from both sides. This is just to help the flat graver to get a nice start or end. With the flat graver the sides of the file are cut. An onglette can also be used. Personal preferences are important.

[IMG]http:/engravingschool.com/forum-pics/DSCN0168.jpg[/IMG]











Start with a Sharp graver and keep it Sharp. Cut a nice straight cut besides the stones without taking too much off the beads of course. Sometimes itís necessary to come back with the beading tool to finish or rebead the beads.

Now the setting is ready to be polished and the ring could be ready for the new owner. This ring isnít quite yet. The top and sides of the ring have to be engraved with a simple leaf motif done with a square graver. Two lines at the edge with even diagonal cross cuts. With a flat graver I cut the edges of the ďoffĒ squareís to make them more leaf like.

As last the square is used again to cut the vein on the leaf. Then the sides

Then the sideís of the ring and when done the millegriffe to bead up the edgeís,
A quick polish and the new owner can be called.











Well, thatís about it. There are of course a lot of other ways to make such a ring. This is just a simple one with basic tools.
Hope you like it.

These rings were made the same way.








Greetings,

Daniel
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  #2  
Old 05-22-2008, 05:30 PM
ronlevine ronlevine is offline
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Default Re: Eternity ring

That is really neat. Thanks for posting. Nice work.
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Old 05-22-2008, 07:26 PM
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Default Re: Eternity ring

Thanks Daniel!

That's a darn fine tutorial!

I'm not a jeweler and I haven't learned how to set stones yet but I still think I could do it in a couple of tries.
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Old 05-23-2008, 11:09 AM
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Default Re: Eternity ring

Hoi Danie,

Great tutorial, nice pictures

nog bedankt voor je informatie

Groetjes Noudl
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  #5  
Old 05-23-2008, 11:55 PM
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Default Re: Eternity ring

Beautiful work Daniel. That was nice of you to let Joe put you up to the tutorial. Your tutorial will be inspirational to a lot of people. I'll bet there is a guy that lives just North of Pocatello that is gathering the materials to do one right now. Thanks for showing the forum.
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  #6  
Old 05-24-2008, 09:16 AM
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Default Re: Eternity ring

You're right Haraga - we need to thank Joe as well for getting Daniel to put up this fine tutorial!

You wouldn't think from looking at the finished product that each step would be so (apparently) simple.

But I guess that's the case with a lot of things in the engraving world.
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Old 05-24-2008, 09:45 AM
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Default Re: Eternity ring

Daniel

What a wonderful Post.

I have not had time to go over It yet but I have seen enough to see It Is a Great Tutorial.

Thank you very much.

Kenneth Crutcher

P.S. Thank Joe Cera for me also.
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  #8  
Old 05-25-2008, 11:12 AM
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Default Re: Eternity ring

Wauw, thank you all for your positive reply's!
These rings where all made a few years ago before I had a microscope and Lindsay. (made for a dutch forum for goldsmith's amateurs and proffs alike. I hope my translation is not to flawed)
With these tools there must be a better way to set these rings and I am curious how the professionals with these tools would approach such a ring.
Joe Cera asked me to translate some of my tutorials but since I'm only working with microscope and Lindsay for a few months I was reluctant. But I think this way of setting a ring is easy assisted with the Lindsay of GRS system.

Now with the new tools I have to find my way of setting stone's just as fast as with the old way's. Until now I'm loosing a lot of time adjusting the microscope and finding the unnessesary steps.
The engravings on the side's will be much better though.

Thanks again for your reply's and thank's to Joe to!

Daniel
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  #9  
Old 05-25-2008, 12:45 PM
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Default Re: Eternity ring

Daniel: Awesome write up, you make a *plain* ring into something very elegant with a few simple techinques...Ill be trying this in the near future. Thanks for sharing.
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Old 05-25-2008, 03:39 PM
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Default Re: Eternity ring

Very nice work and writeup, thanks!
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  #11  
Old 05-27-2008, 08:38 PM
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This is very impressive, It makes me want to try it. Where do you get the basic ring and what style of ring is it called. I use Rio Grande and will look through their catalog but any info on the style type and where you get your basics would be greatly appreciated.

thanks
Neil:yesnod:
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  #12  
Old 05-28-2008, 02:43 AM
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Default Re: Eternity ring

I've just bought some square wire to give that a go. Silver, mind you - if I'm practicing, it makes more sens to me than piling in and doing it in gold...
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  #13  
Old 05-28-2008, 04:22 AM
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Default Re: Eternity ring

Very Good I still wish I could read the Dutch,
There is a lot of ways to accomplish this style
of rings and setting.Again very nice.
Here is a piece I have just finished all hand fabricated Sterling and 18kY
Hand engraved
Thanks Joe Cera
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Old 05-28-2008, 06:46 AM
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Default Re: Eternity ring

Nice ring Joe!

I like the design - clean and simple yet that nice flat table gives you a lot of room to make the ring what you want it to be.

You could make another of the same basic design, go wild on the flat and have a very different end result.

Oh - and thanks for getting Daniel to do this tutorial for us.
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  #15  
Old 05-28-2008, 12:50 PM
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Default Re: Eternity ring

Hy Mr McKeenh,

The type of basic ring doesnt really matter. It has to be able to hold the stone without its bottem protruding the indide and about 1mm wider then the stones are. In this case, biggest stones 1.5mm so 2.5 wide is ideal and 1.4 thick. I order my rings in holland but this ring I made out of octagonal rod milled down to the just size. So if you are using silver, anything from up to 1.4mm thick and 2.5 would work. This tutorial was made for my (amateur) student and for a forum that I am bysy on. I have my students saw of a strip of silver and make the ring like that. Good practice. So there are many roads to reach Rome!

Joe, thank you! Indeed, it seems like this tutorial is appreciated here. I am sorry that I hav not made any tutorials yet concerning graver's a lot. So translating other tut's wouldn't help this forum a lot.
Nice ring. I would like to see the setting more clear though.

Mr. Bond, Good luck and I hope to see the result whenn you finish!

Thanks again,

Daniel
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Old 05-28-2008, 03:08 PM
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Default Re: Eternity ring

Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel Houwer
Mr. Bond, Good luck and I hope to see the result whenn you finish!
Maybe the third or fourth if I'm lucky... I've got the wire now, and in the interests of making things more difficult for myself, I thought I'd try some Brilliante silver - sterling-ish, but with zinc, indium, tin and copper. Yet another low-tarnish alloy; I've used Argentium a bit, and it definitely works, but has a couple of foibles.

Right now, I've milled the wire down to 2.5mm square (3 was the nearest in stock) and annealed it; I'll solder a batch of rings to play with once I've finished the outstanding projects.

Grain/bead setting is what I've decided to spend the next month learning anyway, so this gives some nice directed learning; thank you.
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  #17  
Old 05-31-2008, 11:24 AM
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Well now I have done it! I showed this thread to my wife because I was so impressed with it and now I guess I am going into the ring business. ( at Least long enough to make her One.)

Neil:yesnod:
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Old 05-31-2008, 07:17 PM
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Default Re: Eternity ring

Neil

I just told the ever-indulgent wife about this tutorial and it got her interest. I just have to take a silversmithing class and learn how to set stones first.
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Old 05-31-2008, 11:07 PM
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Setting stones is not my problem, engraving that small on the side of the ring will be the problem. All I can do is crank up the power and give it a try. I have some brass rings from a class I took so I guess I will practice on one of those.

Neil:yesnod:
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Old 06-01-2008, 06:57 AM
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Default Re: Eternity ring

Small's not too hard - just grind the tip of your graver down smaller so it's easier to see where the actual point is (and it doesn't block so much of the work) and maybe get some higher magnification.

Yeah, Phil and Steve and those guys don't have to do that but they've got... somewhat more experience than we do.
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Old 06-03-2008, 08:15 PM
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My tools are plenty small now, it is just a matter of me thinking that small, and cranking up the power on my microscope. It will work but as with anything new there is alot to think about to make it come out right.

Neil:yesnod:
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Old 06-03-2008, 09:00 PM
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As long as you aren't having trouble tracking the tip of the graver and where it's going they're small enough.

Cranking up the microscope to a higher power will help you think small - mostly because it will make a little tiny hairline look like a monstrous channel.

Looking forward to seeing your next piece! :thumbsup:
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Old 06-03-2008, 10:12 PM
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There is alot more to this than just the small engraving, now I have to learn to make a ring the right size from material the right size with stones of the proper size and then put it all together without makeing any mistakes and then engrave it with that tiny leaf pattern. And still keep up my other scedule. No problem.


Neil:willy_nilly:
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  #24  
Old 06-03-2008, 10:25 PM
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Default Re: Eternity ring

I always wondered how jewelers set stones; that took some of the mystery out of it. Mighty fine work too!:whoo:
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Old 06-04-2008, 01:19 PM
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Default Re: Eternity ring

Hi McKeenh,

Making a ring should not be a problem if the proper formula's are used.
Let's say your wifes ring has a diameter of 17mm and the ring has to be 1.4mm thick. The formula is diameters+material thicknessx3.14. That gives you the length of profile you need. So for this ring 1.4 thick, 2.5 wide and the length you just calculated. Size your profile to the right length and put the two ends to gether as close and snugg as possible and use the proper solder to solder. For gold I use the medium solder because it will not crack when I "round" the ring on a mandrel. For silver I would use extra hard solder. Make the soldering seem as close as possible. Try to cut the seem with a fine sawblade to fit exactly and then solder it.

Afer soldering file off the exess solder and round it on a mandrell. File down the seem and the rest of the ring if neccecary and grind it with about a 320grid and polish. Do not polish the part where the stone's will be put. No need to. You will have to carve up the side's anyway.

For the engraving of the side's, I used only an optivisor so anyone wanting to try this ring with a microscope should not have any problems I used a square graver and a flat graver.

Tim, I hope I did not take all of the mystery's out! Experience just like with engraving is the biggest key to any mystery. (I think)

Thanks for you kind reply's and I hope to see some rings soon
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Old 06-04-2008, 02:14 PM
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Default Re: Eternity ring

It's nice to see other people's determining of ring shank sizes - I've tended to use circumference + 2 * material thickness (plus a bit). Using r for radius and t for thickness of the ring stock, this would be 2 * pi * r + 2 *t overall. Or 2 * pi * (r + t/pi). At these dimensions, t/pi and t/2 are not too far off from each other (bear with me here!).

Mathematically, I'd go for the outside being under tension, the inside of the ring under compression, so pick the mid line of the ring as the length & use the ring inside radius + 1/2 the material thickness as the effective radius. This would give a length of 2 * pi * (r + t/2)

Your method is simpler than that, and seems to use (2*r + t)*pi... Or 2 * pi * r + 2 * t * pi. Which is 2 * pi * (r + t/2)...

The rule of thumb method I usually use is the least accurate, but for the sizes we're dealing with, it kind of works :D

(Ruddy engineers!!!)
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Old 06-04-2008, 02:14 PM
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Yeah, OK - I'll post the ring when it's done
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Old 06-14-2008, 10:30 AM
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thanks guys for the information, You make it easier to think about. I have been practicing some rather fine engraving and it is working quite well, especially with Steve's Classic and the stainless piston. ( and parralell point.)


Neil:yesnod:
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  #29  
Old 01-15-2009, 04:44 PM
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Default Re: Eternity ring

Hey, did anyone try this already and suceeded? Last Christmass I made just such a ring but now with the PC Airgraver. Took me longer now but I think the crispness of the settings was better.

Greetings,

Daniel
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Old 01-15-2009, 08:45 PM
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Default Re: Eternity ring

Hi Danial,

Your work is truely inspiring, and the write up surely help beginners like me. Thank You for taking time to post this fine work.

Best Wishes,

JT
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Old 01-16-2009, 03:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel Houwer View Post
Hey, did anyone try this already and suceeded?
Try, yes; succeed - not yet. I've concluded I'm no fan of Brilliante silver (not keen on the way it handles), I'd rather stick with standard sterling or Argentium. Decided I'd start out by trying the decorative engraving first and made a mess of it, so I'll restart.

On the upside, I should have a decent workshop again at the end of the month - an old buttery, 5.5m (18ft) diameter - so I'll be able to get back to making jewellery & practicing engraving again.

Taking a short course at West Dean College on stone setting too, but that's not until May.
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Old 03-17-2009, 03:12 PM
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Oh, my goodness, here it is! Exactly how to do an Eternity Ring! I'll have to try it now!
Thanks!
- M'lou
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  #33  
Old 08-03-2009, 12:18 AM
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Default Re: Eternity ring

Dear Daniel,

We also have few eternity rings crafted by hands in 0.90mm high quality single cut diamonds in VS, E-F..

Sunil.
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  #34  
Old 08-03-2009, 10:46 AM
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Default Re: Eternity ring

Thanks for showing that Sunil.
Really great. That must be about 55 diamonds in there
Do you use gravers to make these rings too?

Daniel
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Old 08-04-2009, 05:52 AM
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Daniel,

We use GRS gravers. Important point of the ring is not design (as it's very simple) but quality of diamonds to choose for setting in order to have optimal lustre from diamonds in the ring. And the diamonds used in the ring have been specially made in our polishing factory.

By the way, do you make such kind of rings ? How about trend of this kind of ring in your country ? Because in india, still eternity fashion has not evolved as there no nice setting available here in local and people even don't want to go in deep for quality. The care only for prices here.

What price you think for the ring honestly ?

Rgrds,
Sunil.
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Old 08-04-2009, 07:42 AM
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Default Re: Eternity ring

Very nice Sunil.
Funny to hear that you use such good quality diamond.
Here in Holland, if they call it Inda cut it would not be thought off as high quality. Good to know that this is not alway so.

I do make eternity rings with prongs but so far not this kind with half point diamonds and prongs between two stones.
I would surely like to try that though. Can I order the stones with you?

The costs of a ring like that I would not know. I do know that around here you can have specialized setters set and deliver these stones for around $5 each. So here in Expensice Holland a ring with 50 diamonds and a band of 2 grams? would be wholesale around $350 at cheapest.

Greetings,

Daniel
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Old 08-06-2009, 04:01 AM
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Dear Daniel,

you can see more collection at my ORKUT place....ID is " diamond diamond " .

I will be happy to serve you. Also would like to meet you in near future. I sometimes, visit Antwerp for Biz.

I want to chat with you direct . How is it possible ? May I know your email id or telephone number ?

Thanking you,

Sunil patel,
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www.smalldiamonds.biz
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Old 08-15-2009, 05:18 PM
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thanks for the class
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Old 01-19-2011, 09:10 AM
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Default Re: Eternity ring

Very good work Daniel! I love this rings
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  #40  
Old 01-21-2011, 12:31 PM
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pedroito pedroito is offline
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Default Re: Eternity ring

great job Daniel, you are intelligent
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  #41  
Old 01-21-2011, 03:50 PM
Peter Peter is offline
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Default Re: Eternity ring

GREAT tutorial Daniel! Thanks for taking the time.

I'm not a jeweler, but did take a few classes in "jewelry making". We learned soldering and bezel setting cabachons but not faceted stones.

Anyway, a goldsmith I know let me watch her work doing repairs, and it included a lot stonesetting. One slight difference than Daniels technique, was using stone setting burs instead of round. After measuring the stone, the nearest undersize bur is selected, and they are cylindrical, with an angled tip that resembles the point on the bottom of the stone.

Once the hole is drilled, the stone seats perfectly and FAST.

Peter
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Old 01-21-2011, 04:49 PM
Jeffrey Jeffrey is offline
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Peter
Stone setting burs are frequently used by setters, but for small setting like this most diamond setters use round burs exclusively as it allows the tiny gem to be adjusted to be perfectly level. Using a hart bur to set the level of the stone is very common, and I also commonly do this, but it is somewhat difficult to adjust the gem once locked into the seat in case it is slightly out of level. To add another level of complexity leading to perfect setting the very assiduous setter will closely align the facets of adjoining to all be exactly in the same relative position such that light reflecting from the facets of all adjoining stones will display coherence and symmetry. Most setters don't bother with aligning the stones to that degree, but some absolutely do.
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Old 01-21-2011, 05:32 PM
Peter Peter is offline
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^^^ Thanks for the explanation Jeffrey. Makes sense, as those are small stones.

Peter
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  #44  
Old 01-22-2011, 02:58 AM
SEngraver SEngraver is offline
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Default Re: Eternity ring

HI Daniel,
It is said "a picture speaks a thousand words",The work in progress shown in your pictures is beyond words for me.
I also had a once in a while the opportunity to see you live making a similar ring.
That's was a special moment to see a great goldsmith in action !!

Your tutoring is held in high regard and it is very much valued by me.
Thanks a million.
MO
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Old 02-06-2011, 05:12 AM
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Gemsetterchris Gemsetterchris is offline
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Default Re: Eternity ring

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffrey View Post
Peter
Stone setting burs are frequently used by setters, but for small setting like this most diamond setters use round burs exclusively as it allows the tiny gem to be adjusted to be perfectly level. Using a hart bur to set the level of the stone is very common, and I also commonly do this, but it is somewhat difficult to adjust the gem once locked into the seat in case it is slightly out of level. To add another level of complexity leading to perfect setting the very assiduous setter will closely align the facets of adjoining to all be exactly in the same relative position such that light reflecting from the facets of all adjoining stones will display coherence and symmetry. Most setters don't bother with aligning the stones to that degree, but some absolutely do.
I`ve never used a seating bur ever! i can understand that if you don`t keep the drill straight you will have a job getting the stones level
Facet aligning i reserve for better jobs or bigger stones..waste of time otherwise as it`s nigh impossible to see the difference with small diamonds & average eyesight.
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Old 06-20-2011, 09:46 PM
Mark Anderson Mark Anderson is offline
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Default Re: Eternity ring

If you don't mind me asking Daniel, where did you get the white insert for your inside ring holder? It looks a lot better than the one slit pieces I have.
Thanks for the great tutorial
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  #47  
Old 06-21-2011, 04:41 AM
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Daniel Houwer Daniel Houwer is offline
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Hi Mark,
Well, I got the ring holder in Holland with our supply store for the goldsmith.
And I ordered the same tool from India once but that was with a mega order with 20 smiths together cause we had to buy for more then 4000,-.
I do think that Rio Grande should have this tool to but im not sure.
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  #48  
Old 08-29-2011, 04:02 PM
PS_Bond PS_Bond is offline
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Default Re: Eternity ring

Well, it's taken me far too long to get this far, but finally:



Flaws abound... I know what several were, and how I'll avoid them next time (but I probably ought to document them as well).
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Old 08-29-2011, 04:48 PM
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Daniel Houwer Daniel Houwer is offline
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Default Re: Eternity ring

Wauw,,,, Mr Bond,
You outdid me times over again!!!
You squared the inside's!!!!
Fabulously grand. Way to go,, keep on doing that and tell me the way you squared the insides!!!

Brilliant
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Old 08-30-2011, 12:40 AM
PS_Bond PS_Bond is offline
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Outdid, Daniel? Hardly! I have stones at varying depths. I have stones out of line. I've got one that isn't quite level... I'm not sure that I'd do another one in silver, there's not enough weight to the thing once everything's drilled. That's the first time I've tried pre-cutting the setting too - although this was all by hand, not powered.

With squaring the insides, all I used was a saw & a 4/0 blade - sawn at an angle (to keep the blade clear of the top of the hole) from the middle of the ring to the outside edge, then the same to work along the edge. Undo the saw frame & go again from the other side. That's the first time I've tried doing that too; I've used the edge of the blade as a file before, but I've never tackled the round one side/square the other holes before. I tried squaring them with the ring horizontal, then tried vertical; vertical on the peg was much easier. I've clearly not been doing enough piercing up until now as that's the first time I've bruised myself with blade changes - there's about 28 stones in that, so that's 56 instances of undoing & redoing the frame...

It all needs more work still, but I'm moderately pleased with this as a practice piece.
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